Every listing we could read
| Bike | Price | Earns | Top speed | Power | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hayate RX-3 | FREE | 1x | 112 mph | 52 hp | 368 lb |
| Corvara RV 660 | $12,500 | 1.15x | 147 mph | 100 hp | 403 lb |
| Kazeno ZR-6 | $50,000 | 1.3x | 161 mph | 127 hp | 432 lb |
| Kazeno ZT-1000 | $150,000 | 1.5x | 164 mph | 142 hp | 503 lb |
| Vantis XR-1K | $1,650,000 | 2.5x | 197 mph | 217 hp | 434 lb |
| Shirotaka SX-1300 | $2,500,000 | not read | not read | not read | not read |
The dealership draws Handling as a bar with no number on it, so there is nothing to quote and nothing to compare. Shirotaka SX-1300 is in the table because its card price is legible, but its detail panel was never opened in the footage, which is why four cells say "not read" rather than carrying a guess.
What each price step actually buys
Each row below is one step up the ladder, with what the extra money changes.
- Free → $12,500 (Hayate RX-3 → Corvara RV 660). The multiplier moves from 1x to 1.15x, top speed from 112 to 147 mph, power from 52 to 100 hp, and weight from 368 to 403 lb. This is the smallest multiplier step on the table and the only one you can reach within a first session.
- $12,500 → $50,000 (Corvara → Kazeno ZR-6). Multiplier 1.15x to 1.3x, top speed 147 to 161 mph, power 100 to 127 hp, weight 403 to 432 lb. Four times the price for a smaller jump than the first step, so the decision is about how long you plan to keep riding rather than about the bike itself.
- $50,000 → $150,000 (ZR-6 → Kazeno ZT-1000). Multiplier 1.3x to 1.5x, top speed 161 to 164 mph, power 127 to 142 hp. It is also the heaviest listing we could read at 503 lb, so you are paying for the multiplier more than for agility.
- $150,000 → $1,650,000 (ZT-1000 → Vantis XR-1K). Multiplier 1.5x to 2.5x, top speed 164 to 197 mph, power 142 to 217 hp, weight back down to 434 lb. This is the largest multiplier jump on the table and an order of magnitude in price.
To turn any of those steps into a time, open the upgrade planner: it takes your balance and what you normally bank per minute, then reports the remaining gap, the saving time and an estimated payback under a model it states openly.
Which one to pick
Three situations cover most players, and none of them needs a tier list.
- You just redeemed both codes. You hold $11,000 against a $12,500 first upgrade, so you are $1,500 short. The card tells you the shortfall in cash rather than as a percentage, and the planner shows how long the last $1,500 takes at your own rate.
- You want the multiplier at 1.5x. Kazeno ZT-1000 is the only listing at that figure we could read. If 1.3x is enough for how you ride, Kazeno ZR-6 reaches it for a third of the price.
- You have not spent and do not plan to. Everything here is priced in in-game cash, so the whole ladder is reachable without Robux; the wait is the cost. The two endgame listings sit at $1,650,000 and $2,500,000, which is a long climb at any multiplier.
Slots we could not read
Four more cards exist in the dealership. Hayate DY-1 and Davalla Corsa V4 show their names but their prices were cut off by the panel. Two further cards showed $350,000 and $550,000 but their names were cut off.
Because we cannot pair a name with a price, those four are not in the table. Writing a price against a name we did not see would be a guess dressed as data.
When the number on your screen differs
The dealership is live and the game was still being updated while we collected this. If a price or an Earns figure disagrees with what you see, your screen wins.
Two things to check before treating a listing as wrong:
- Read the card, not the grid. The price on the grid tile and the price in the detail panel are the same value in the footage; if they ever differ, the detail panel is the one with the full field set.
- Check your own balance first. The card shows the shortfall against your current cash, so a
Need $…figure changes as you earn. How banked cash is calculated during a run explains which HUD number is actually money.